TABLE OF CONTENTS
CHAPTER 1: INTRODUCTION & QUICK START GUIDE
.........................................................
9
CHAPTER 2: GETTING STARTED
..................................................................................................11
CHAPTER 3: MEASUREMENT BASICS
......................................................................................15
CHAPTER 4: DESIGNING
...................................................................................................................19
Chapter 4a. - Putting
it all together with Customized Sewing
Instructions.........................26
CHAPTER 5: PRINTING
.......................................................................................................................27
Chapter 5a. -
Constructing Your
Patterns..................................................................................29
Chapter 5b. - Printer
Settings - Options Summary, Sewing Instructions
...........................29
CHAPTER 6: PATTERN DIAGRAMS
............................................................................................30
CHAPTER 7: THE LAYOUT TOOL
.................................................................................................32
CHAPTER 8: GENERAL SEWING BASICS
...............................................................................34
Chapter 8a. - General
Pattern Preparation
................................................................................34
Chapter 8b. - Fabric
Preparation and Lay
Out...........................................................................37
Chapter 8c. - Seam
Finishing
Techniques..................................................................................38
Chapter 8d. - How To
Bias and Self Bias
....................................................................................38
Chapter 8e. - How to
Sew Press and Steam
................................................................................42
CHAPTER 9: PERFECTING YOUR MEASUREMENTS FOR FIT
.......................................45
Chapter 9a. - Marking
Your
Body................................................................................................45
Chapter 9b. -
Measuring Your Body
...........................................................................................47
Chapter 9c. - Common
Measuring Mistakes
............................................................................53
Chapter 9d. - How to
Adjust Your
Measurements.....................................................................54
Chapter 9e. - How to
Construct and Adjust the Bodice Fit Test Garment
...........................60
Chapter 9f. - How To
Construct and Adjust the Casual Blouse Fit Test Garment.............63
Chapter 9g. - How to
Construct and Adjust the Torso Fit Test
Garment.............................64
Chapter 9h. - How to
Construct and Adjust the Pant Fit Test Garment
..............................66
Chapter 9i. - How to
Prepare and Muslin (test) a Jacket
Pattern.........................................69
CHAPTER 10: BLOUSES
.................................................................................................................71
Chapter 10a. - How to
Construct a Blouse or Shirt:
...............................................................71
Chapter 10b. -
Pleated Blouse with Vee
Neckline...................................................................71
CHAPTER 11: DRESSES
.................................................................................................................72
Chapter 11a. - A-Line
Dress with Set-in
Sleeves.....................................................................72
Chapter 11b. -
Undarted Waisted
Dress....................................................................................72
CHAPTER 12: PRINCESS & PANELS
.........................................................................................74
Chapter 12a. -
Princess Line Patterns
......................................................................................74
Chapter 12b. -
Princess Pleats
...................................................................................................74
Chapter 12c. - How to
Insert the Pocket in the Princess to Pocket
Patterns.....................75
Chapter 12d. - Side
Panel
Garments..........................................................................................78
CHAPTER 13: OUTERWEAR
.........................................................................................................79
Chapter 13a. - Basic
Jacket with Collar
..................................................................................79
Chapter 13b. -
Princess Jacket with Shawl
Neck...................................................................80
Chapter 13c. -
Vests......................................................................................................................80
Chapter 13d. -
Tunics...................................................................................................................80
CHAPTER 14: SKIRTS
......................................................................................................................82
Chapter 14a. - Tiered
Skirt.........................................................................................................82
Chapter 14b. - Gored
Skirt..........................................................................................................83
CHAPTER 15: PANTS
.......................................................................................................................84
Chapter 15a. - Basic
Pants
.........................................................................................................84
Chapter 15b. -
Jeans.....................................................................................................................85
Chapter 15c. -
One-Seam
Pants.................................................................................................86
CHAPTER 16: LOUNGEWEAR
.....................................................................................................87
Chapter 16a. - Shawl
Collar
Robe..............................................................................................88
CHAPTER 17: DARTS & PLEATS
...............................................................................................88
Chapter 17a. - Darts
....................................................................................................................88
Chapter 17b. - Pleats
...................................................................................................................88
Chapter 17c. -
Shoulder Pleats
.................................................................................................89
Chapter 17d. - Action
Pleat........................................................................................................90
CHAPTER 18: YOKES
...................................................................................................................92
Chapter 18a. - Blouse
& Shirt Yokes
.....................................................................................92
Chapter 18b. -
Classic Shirt Yoke
...........................................................................................92
Chapter 18c. - Skirt
Yokes........................................................................................................94
Chapter 18d. - Pant
Yokes
.........................................................................................................96
CHAPTER 19: NECKLINES
............................................................................................................97
Chapter 19a. - How to
Construct a Polo Neck
........................................................................97
Chapter 19b. - How to
Construct a Turtleneck
....................................................................102
Chapter 19c. -
Constructing A Funnel
Neck........................................................................103
Chapter 19d. - How to
Construct a Cowl
Neck......................................................................106
Chapter 19e. -
Peasant
Neckline.............................................................................................107
Chapter 19f. - How To Sew The Lariat
Neck.......................................................................108
Chapter 19g.
- How To Construct a Henley
Neck...............................................................110
CHAPTER 20: COLLARS
.............................................................................................................114
Chapter 20a. - Basic
Collar
.....................................................................................................114
Chapter 20b. - Shawl
or Wing Collars
..................................................................................116
Chapter 20c. - Peter
Pan...........................................................................................................118
Chapter 20d. -
Mandarin Collar
.............................................................................................119
CHAPTER 21: CLOSURES
..........................................................................................................121
Chapter 21a. - How to
Construct a Button
Placket..............................................................121
Chapter 21b. - Short
Placket
Openings.................................................................................124
Chapter 21c. -
Invisible Zipper
...............................................................................................125
Chapter 21d. - Flat
or Centered Zipper
.................................................................................127
Chapter 21e. - Fly
Zipper
.........................................................................................................129
Chapter 21f. -
Attached Fly Zipper
Opening.........................................................................133
Chapter 21g. -
Separating Zipper
...........................................................................................136
Chapter 21h. - Lapped Zipper
................................................................................................139
Chapter 21i. - How to Construct the Shoulder Closure......................................................141
CHAPTER 22: SLEEVES
..............................................................................................................143
Chapter 22a. - How to
Construct the Sleeve
..........................................................................143
Chapter 22b. - Darted
Sleeve.....................................................................................................144
Chapter 22c. - Two
Piece
Sleeve...............................................................................................144
Chapter 22d. - Raglan Sleeve
..................................................................................................145
Chapter 22e. - Lantern..............................................................................................................145
Chapter 22f. - Ruffled Sleeve
..................................................................................................147
Chapter 22g. -
Cuffs..................................................................................................................149
Chapter 22h. - The
Tailored Sleeve Vent
..............................................................................151
CHAPTER 23: WAISTBANDS
.....................................................................................................154
Chapter 23a. -
Waistband..........................................................................................................154
Chapter 23b. - No
Roll Waistband
..........................................................................................155
Chapter 23c. - Fold
over Elastic Waistband or Drawstring for Pants and Skirts..........155
CHAPTER 24: VENTS AND GODETS
....................................................................................157
Chapter 24a. - Vents
and Kick Pleats
....................................................................................157
Chapter 24b. - Godets
................................................................................................................158
CHAPTER 25: POCKETS
..............................................................................................................160
Chapter 25a. - Inseam
Pockets
................................................................................................160
Chapter 25b. -
Inserted
Pocket.................................................................................................160
Chapter 25c. - Cargo
Pockets
..................................................................................................162
Chapter 25d. - Welt
Pocket.......................................................................................................164
Chapter 25e. - Patch
Pockets
...................................................................................................165
CHAPTER 26: EXTRAS
.................................................................................................................166
Chapter 26a. - Custom
Made Shoulder Pads
.........................................................................166
Chapter 26b. - Belt
Loops
.........................................................................................................167
CHAPTER 27: FINISHING
..............................................................................................................168
Chapter 27a. -
Ribbing...............................................................................................................168
Chapter 27b. -
Facings for Necklines and Armholes
..........................................................168
Chapter 27c. -
Linings
..............................................................................................................169
Chapter 27d. -
Interfacing and Notions
..................................................................................170
Chapter 27e. -
Necklines and
Armholes................................................................................171
Chapter 27f. -
Hems...................................................................................................................171
CHAPTER 28: FABRICS
..............................................................................................................175
Chapter 28a. -
Working with Knits and Stretch Fabrics
..................................................175
Chapter 28b. - How To
Compute A Fabric's Stretch
Factor...............................................177